Michelin-starred Chef Nicolas Isnard brings his unique touch to a beloved classic, transforming French onion soup into a surprising, modern masterpiece.
At Bord Eau by Nicolas Isnard, located in Abu Dhabi’s Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, diners are in for an unexpected twist. French onion soup, a dish known for its hearty warmth and comforting flavors, comes with a surprise: ice cream. For those accustomed to the traditional pairing of caramelized onions, bread, and Gruyère, this reinvention may raise eyebrows. However, Michelin-starred chef Nicolas Isnard has a compelling explanation for this bold fusion.
“The idea for the onion soup came from the concept of the ‘trou normand,’ a French tradition where a sorbet and calvados are served between courses to aid digestion,” explains Isnard. “Onions, with their natural sweetness and digestive properties, inspired the ice cream element.” What began as an experiment has turned into a signature dish, now served as a starter to set the tone for the rest of the menu, blending familiarity with an element of surprise.
Isnard’s culinary journey began in his grandmother’s kitchen, and over time, his work has evolved, drawing inspiration from Mediterranean flavors and his travels around the world. His modern take on traditional French cuisine is a testament to his constant pursuit of innovation. Recently, Isnard partnered with France’s youngest Michelin-starred chef, Turac Ludovic, for a special dining experience at Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, showcasing their distinct styles. While Ludovic treated guests to his signature Aioli, Isnard’s modern French onion soup continued to surprise and delight diners.
Despite his international acclaim, Isnard remains grounded, attributing his success to passion, love, and humility. “I wouldn’t say I’ve reached the pinnacle of success; there’s always more to learn and achieve. But I believe success comes from passion, love, and humility. If you bring those into your work every day, the rest follows naturally,” he shares. Isnard emphasizes the importance of perseverance, patience, and adaptability, qualities that have helped him build human connections and grow as a chef.
Though cooking is his life’s work, Isnard admits to having considered other creative careers. “I love photography, sports, poker, and writing. If I hadn’t pursued a culinary career, perhaps I would have been a sports journalist or photographer — fields where creativity and storytelling are just as important.”
Balancing the demands of the kitchen with family life is another challenge Isnard has navigated successfully. “I’m fortunate to have found a balance. Spending time with my wife and children is a priority,” he says, emphasizing how quality moments with family help him stay grounded amid the pressures of running a Michelin-starred restaurant.
For Isnard, passion and precision are non-negotiable in the kitchen. “It frustrates me when work lacks passion. In my experience, it takes less time to do things well than to do them poorly. Attention to detail should never be compromised,” he states firmly. However, for amateurs, his advice is simple: “Have fun. Cooking should always be an enjoyable experience.”
Isnard’s career has been filled with accolades and awards, including being named Young Talent of the Year by Gault&Millau at 27. Yet, he remains focused on the daily challenges of consistency and creativity. “As a Michelin-starred chef, you’re always in the spotlight, which means constantly striving to innovate while maintaining the highest standards. It’s not just about cooking; it’s about leadership, managing the business side of things, and staying organized.”
Despite the pressures, Isnard finds joy in the endless opportunities to excel. “Every day must be better than the last,” he says, embodying the ambition and drive that have propelled him to the forefront of the culinary world.
With his French onion soup reimagined and his relentless pursuit of excellence, Nicolas Isnard continues to prove that in his kitchen, tradition and innovation go hand in hand.
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